Saturday, March 28, 2009

Developments Down South





I came across some interesting Latin American references in the news over the past week. The New York Times travel section had a very interesting article on tourism in Costa Rica. The city Turrialba, mentioned for its white water rafting and growing reputation as a destination for adventure tourists, is a short bus ride from the small town of Pacayitas de la Suiza, where my host family from Costa Rica resides.



Also, the Washington Post had a very interesting story about very interesting political happenings in Columbia. Apparently the potential for a free trade agreement between our government and that of Columbia has given particular elements within our governement the ability to pressure Columbian authorities to promote human rights for Afro-Colombians. Plantation owners that previously helped support the intimidation and murder of many black farmers in Colombia are now being investigated and many of the farmers who were ran off their farms are getting the opportunity to return to their land. Members of the congressional black caucus have spearheaded the effort to leverage the trade partnership to support the rights of African descendants in Columbia. "Free trade" and free trade agreements are complex and controversial political topics, but at the very least this article demonstrates the potential benefits that can be derived when open markets are accompanied by social responsibility and a dedication to human rights

And just to keep Brazil in the mix, according to the Financial Times, President Lula has officially blamed white people for the global financial crisis. I'm not sure if that's the most politically tactful way to approach the situation...but it's good for a few headlines.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Pura Vida (Rediscovered)!

I'm still figuring out the next leg of my travels. And while looking through old files on my computer I came across a short piece I wrote almost 5 years ago about my first international experience (sans parents) when I spent a summer in Costa Rica teaching English. The article was my first stab at travel writing and was published in the illustrious Ron Brown Scholars Newsletter. If you want to read the story in all of its pdf greatness, click here (There are some pretty cute pictures of the kids I was teaching.) But I have also included the article below:

***

I am not a morning person. At home and at school I typically press the snooze button on my alarm a dozen times. I need to take a fifteen-minute shower before I can create cogent sentences, and am still not very friendly until I have completely digested a full breakfast.

Unfortunately, Costa Ricans love the morning. Before the sun reaches the horizon, the call of the family rooster breaks the night’s silence. Feeling left out, all the neighborhood dogs chime in and contribute to the daily morning symphony that, without fail, broke my peaceful slumber every day I spent in Central America. My host mother was always scurrying around the house at what I considered the wee hours of the morning, preparing for the next day. My host father was usually working in the fields of coffee and sugar cane before I even groggily realized the day had begun. During the daily ritual in which I struggled to stay awake while eating my breakfast, my host sister was typically already leaving for school with her classmates. This, however, was especially problematic because I was usually the person teaching her first hour English class.

Despite my loathing of early mornings, my teaching schedule in Costa was the easiest adjustment I needed to make. Simply getting to my home in Pacayitas de La Suiza, a tiny town in the central highlands of Costa Rica, was an adventure in and of itself. I remember myself struggling in the dust and heat of a blazing Central American afternoon, trying to find my bearings while dragging around an unnecessarily large suitcase. I darted in and out of speeding cars through streets and alleys seemingly unregulated by traffic lights and signs. I asked for directions in halting Spanish and then feigned understanding when their responses came either too quickly or in an incomprehensible accent. I worried that I may never find my bus stop, and might become an American casualty forever lost in the confusion of the Costa Rican streets.

Finally, like all my travels in Costa Rica, I made it to my destination. I became more confident with my Spanish and eventually learned to move to the rhythm that embodies life in the small nation. This typified my experience this summer. As my American sensibilities began to wear off and I let myself become immersed in my environment, things began to make sense. I no longer worried if all my students fully comprehended object pronouns and verb conjugation. Late buses or forgotten appointments did not get under my skin. My daily thirty minute walk through mountainous terrain became customary, and the morning crow of the rooster actually grew to become comforting in its regularity.

Costa Rica made me adaptable. I learned how to traverse new cultural guidelines and societal standards while still being myself. I became flexible, understanding, and appreciative of all the little pleasures of life in a tiny rural village. Soon I forgot about the long lines at the lone public phone in the town. The constant buzzing of insects began to fade into the background. To the slight chagrin of my supervisor at school, I even began to personify the extremely laid back sensibility that defines life for most in Costa Rica.

Slowly but surely, I became more than just the American in town. I became a fixture at town bailes (parties) and was a regular in the daily mejingas (soccer matches) in the plaza. Students began to solicit my conversation for more than just naughty English words or help with their assignments. As I grew in tune with the daily flow and gossip of the town, I was treated as a confidant and as an equal. I was involved in everyday life in the community, and at brief instances, I feel many people almost began to forget I was a foreigner. And inevitably, as I was readying myself to leave, I realized that I had built genuine relationships in my community. Now as I reminisce on my time spent in Costa Rica, it almost seems as if I am remembering an alternate lifetime. Off in a distant land I picture my other family back home in Pacayitas, living without me and adjusting to the lack of my presence. I feel connected to another world. This process of growth and complete international immersion has given me a depth of perception unavailable in the relative isolation I experienced in America. Costa Rica has given me a taste of the international experience. Now that I feel at home in both the United States and my small community of Pacayitas, where am I going to explore next?

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Options

I've been spending a lot of time in the past few days trying to figure out the next step in the journey. There are some other places in the Americas that I would love to explore but I'm also tempted to head directly across the pond and try my look in Europe, Africa and the Middle East. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thursday, March 12, 2009

O Fenômeno

Apparently greatness never dies. Ronaldo, O Fenômeno ("The Phenomenon"), is back. After scoring the most goals in World Cup history and amassing one of the greatness resumes in all of football, Ronaldo blew out his knee about a dozen times, has been intermittently overweight for the past few years, and most recently was blackmailed by transvestite prostitutes in Rio de Janeiro. However, the man who was once on top of the world in Barcelona, Milan and Madrid is back plying his trade in Brazil. He's on my favorite team from Sao Paulo, Corinthians, and apparently had a pretty good week. Check out his first goal in a loooooooongg time. And check out the ridiculous/awesome/scary celebration and crowd reaction.

And to make this story even better, Corinthians, one of the biggest clubs in Brazil, is actually back in the country's first division this year after being embarrassingly relegated to division two in 2007. Looks like 2009 is the year of the comeback.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

The Special Ones



Today there are some pretty exciting football (soccer) matches on television. I am most looking forward to the Champions League match-up between Manchester United and Inter Milan. Both teams are leading their respective domestic leagues (England and Italy) and their rosters are full of incredible talent and very interesting personalities.

Today the New York Times featured Inter's manager/coach, Jose Mourinho, the "Special One." He's brash and flamboyant, and brings a unique style to the science of winning. The article is actually titled: "A Coach Cloaked in Armani and Confidence" He has definitely mastered the art of attracting and molding media attention. NYtimes.com also featured him earlier this month in this Q&A session.

There are also some exciting things going on in the American world of soccer. The MLS season is about to start in a few days and the league is going to announce the two new cities that will have teams in 2011. According to most reports, it sounds like Portland and Vancouver will be on the receiving end of the new franchises. They will join Seattle Sounders FC who will be entering the league this season and the yet unnamed Philadelphia team which will play their first game in 2010. I typically try and keep up with all the new gossip and hearsay at MLS Rumors.

Also - in another story of international intrigue David Beckham will be staying with the Italian team AC Milan for the rest of the season but will rejoin the LA Galaxy in the summer - in the middle of the MLS season. I'm sure a lot of Galaxy fans are pretty upset about this. But I'll admit that David Beckham is still awesome. He's been able to succeed in all of the world's greatest leagues and turn himself into an international icon who transcends his own sport at the same time. Check out this promo he put together with Kevin Garnett for Adidas.

I am Calabar

I still have some Carnaval recap material to post, but I also wanted to remind people that Brazil is more than just music and parties. Two new friends of mine, Rodrigo and Igor, have been doing some amazing work in their community, the neighborhood of Calabar. They both work and study full time, but also lead the local residents association and youth group, and helped build and now run a public library for the residents of their community. They coordinate activities for children in the neighborhood and are true catalysts of social change. They are also very generous hosts and my friend Davidinho and I took a tour of their community as well as a look at the work they are doing at the independently organized community school and library. And on this day everyone was celebrating Igor's birthday and having a despedida, a going away party, for a Canadian English teacher that had been volunteering in the community. Also, to learn more about Calabar, its history, and the work being done in the community, definitely check out Rodrigo's blog, "Calabar Sou Eu" (I am Calabar).

The video is in Portuguese, but I'm planning on embedding some English subtitles ASAP. I also plan on expanding this post.

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Recession? What Recession?


Recession. Job loss. Economic insecurity. The news hasn't been very positive lately. But I have noticed that no one in Brazil is talking about recession. Brazil obviously has its own serious problems, but there's an undeniable optimism (and not just post-Carnaval glow) in Salvador and in the Brazilian national media, an optimism that seems to be all but extinct in the States.

Even during my time in Salvador, explicit forms of poverty seem to be subsiding. There are less children performing and begging in the streets. And people in general seem to be very excited and energetic about the future. Obviously my observations are very unscientific, and I would be very curious to see if any other people that have visited Brazil multiple times in the past couple years have noticed any trends.

A recent story in Time commented on the strength of Brazil's economy during the global recession and takes an interesting look at the fiscal and social policies of the country's current president. Brazil seems to be a very interesting model to study in a world working through struggle and looking for new ideas and innovation.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Frog Farms and Helicopters

What do frog farms, plastic surgery, and helipads have in common? I just watched the documentary Manda Bala (Send a Bullet) that explores the links between political corruption and violent crime in Brazil and all the unbelievably odd industries that flourish in this absurd environment. Sao Paulo is home to huge private helicopter fleets and has more helipads than any city on Earth. The armored car industry is huge in Brazil and plastic surgeons in the country have pioneered new techniques for reconstructive plastic surgery: particularly that of the ear. This is all because Brazil's industrial capital, Sao Paulo, a city of 20 million people, has also become a hot zone for violent crime and kidnapping.

This documentary is pretty interesting. And crime in Sao Paulo is certainly staggering. But I have to admit that I never felt unsafe whenever I spent time in the city. However, just a few days ago, Globo was showing live footage of police climbing roof to roof looking for some criminals responsible for killing a fellow officer a few days earlier. My Brazilian brother remarked, "That stuff only happens in Sao Paulo." But whatever the case may be, the documentary is definitely worth a look. It features some very beautiful airborne shots of the city and weaves together a lot of interesting, and seemingly unrelated social and cultural peculiarities of modern Brazilian life, creating a single narrative exploring governmental corruption. Much of the film is from the perspective of federal Brazilian prosecutors who have spent much of their careers trying to bring one particularly notorious politician to justice.

I have embedded the trailer below. Definitely check it out. I watched the movie online using my Netflix subscription. Hooray technology!

Goals, Blogs and Cups

My most popular video so far has undoubtedly been my tribute to Esporte Club Bahia. Thanks for all the Bahia fans that have visited the site. Your dedication to Bahia is incredible and you are the reason why the team will undoubtedly be back in the Brazilian 1st division sooner rather than later. Check out the blog: http://www.baheaminhaporra.com, a site dedicated to the club that was nice enough to feature this gringos homage to his beloved Tricolor. Fan dedication like this is what helps sell-out game after game at the Fonte Nova, and now Pituacu, and is why Salvador deserves to be one of the host cities when the World Cup returns to Brazil in 2014.

Speaking of the World Cup, the lottery for tickets to the 2010 tournament in South Africa is officially open. You can register to enter the lottery until the end of the month - I know I will. There is no way that I am missing South Africa 2010 (or Brazil 2014!)

In non-Brazilian soccer news, a buddy of mine, Mike Fucito is in the land of tango, steak, and mid-1990 economic meltdown, Brazil's archenemy on the soccer pitch, Argentina. He is traveling with Seattle Sounders Football Club, a new expansion team in Major League Soccer, America's professoinal league. He is currently training with the team on their South American pre-season tour trying to win a spot for himself on the team. He was a teammate of mine in college but was recently picked up by Seattle in the MLS draft. And it looks as though he is doing very well for himself. He scored the game winning goal in the Sounder's most recent scrimmage in Argentina. And here is a pretty funny post-game interview with Mike that was on the Sounders website. Enjoy!



More Carnaval recaps are coming soon, along with new video. And guest bloggers!!!

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Jorge Amado




Whenever I read travel literature about Salvador, I realize how different my perception of the city is than most people that visit. My understanding of the capital of Bahia is intensely wrapped around my Brazilian family - and this is something that has become more clear to me this time around.

Today I saw an older post in the New York Times about Salvador's most famous literary figure - Jorge Amado. A new travel buddy of mine was reading one of his novels and it made me realize how little of his work I had looked into. He is famous for his colorful depictions of life in Salvador, of its people - from all walks of life. His novels would certainly make for incredible travelmates while spending time in the city. But to date, I think I have only read parts, and seen the movie adaptation, of his most famous work, Dona Flor and her Two Husbands. Because I spend most of my time with my Brazilian family here, I think I often forget/neglect to experience the famous "staples" that come to mind for everyone else when they come to the city.

But everyone should definitely check out this Times article on Amado. Also, the article has a pretty solid accompanying photo slideshow.

To get some other perspectives on Salvador, I have invited some guest bloggers to share their perspectives on the city. Be on the lookout for it!